Knoydart - Walking the Mountains

Big walks through gloriously remote Scottish scenery.

Step off the ferry onto the jetty at the hamlet of Inverie and you can just feel the remoteness that is Knoydart, the peninsula of land that is shoehorned between Loch Hourn and Loch Nevis. 

Beyond the huddle of whitewashed buildings that includes the Old Forge pub (more of that later) the towering muscular mountain slopes form an impressive backdrop which heralds the beginning of a fantastic wilderness adventure.

For this trip we’re staying at the wondrous Knoydart Lodge which is a 15-minute walk from Inverie and two minutes from the Long Beach, a superb spot for a sundowner while looking across Loch Nevis to the Isles of Skye and Rum.

The lodge is perfect for groups – think Scandinavian-style minimalist living with a grand vaulted open plan living area and five en-suite bedrooms that offer a great level of comfort.

During our stay we’ll be venturing out to explore this fantastic area. Expect some big munro bagging day hikes interspersed with a more leisurely day when we might saunter along the shoreline to discover hidden beaches and a wealth of wildlife.

As well as dining in, we’ll also explore the local community venues with live music and ‘fill your boots’ meals where locally caught seafood is a speciality. 

Suggested Itinerary

Day 1

We meet you in Mallaig. You can reach the port either by train or car (leaving your vehicle parked in one of the bays surrounding the harbour). 

We then catch the passenger-only ferry which takes 45 minutes to reach Inverie on Knoydart.

Please note: we have no vehicle for this trip so it’s best to leave the ‘kitchen sink’ and any excess bags at home! Once at Inverie, you will need to walk everywhere and this includes from the harbour to our accommodation, which is around a 20 minute walk. Please consider this when packing - a holdall or rucksack, rather than a wheeled suitcase (as the paths are uneven/unsurfaced) is best.

Once at Knoydart Lodge - our base for the trip - we can spend time settling in (no doubt many of you will be quickly diving down to the beach to absorb the views) before we crack on with preparing the evening meal and outlining the plans for the days ahead.

Days 2-4

At the start of each day, after a breakfast that befits a group of hungry walkers, our guide will describe the walking options based on the weather and the level of challenge that the group would like to undertake.

However on two of the days we have in our sights the following munros:

Ladhar Bheinn - 22.5km, 1399m ascent

Ladhar Bheinn is regarded by many as one of the finest mountains in Scotland. It has a remote location, dramatic ridges and superb views. This is a “big hill day” with some steep sections, scrambles and narrow ridges, but one with many rewards and a great sense of achievement when you’re standing on the summit with the whole peninsula before you.

From Inverie we take the forest track that leads into the interior of the Knoydart Peninsula. We soon leave the trees to cross the open moorland to Folach. After passing through more forestry we cross the Allt Coire Torr an Asgaill and pass by the old ruins. This is where the work begins! Climbing a concave slope that gets progressively steeper you’ll be glad when you reach the ridge called Bealach at An Diollaidon. Here we might well have lunch as you can soak up the views across to the Cuillin of Skye.

Afterwards we carry on up the airy ridge to our main goal, the summit of Ladhar Bheinn. After the celebrations we’ll head down a steep scrambly ridge to the Bealach Coire Dhorrcail with views of impressive crags before joining another ridge which we follow to Mam Suidheig. There’s one final descent then into Gleann an Dubh Lochain before a pleasant walk along the valley bottom back to Inverie

Luinne Bheinn and Meall Bhuidhe - 27km, 1586m ascent 

There’s no doubt about it, this is another whopper of a day. However you can revel in the fact that you will have bagged two munros and enjoyed some cracking views. 

From Inverie we walk past the striking monument made by Lord Brock in memory of his father. We then take the bridge over the Inverie River and pass into Gleann Meadail before beginning the steep ascent of the Druim Righeanaich ridge. Our efforts will be rewarded by views across to the Isles of Rum and Eigg.

After crossing the summit of An t-Uiriollaich it’s a straightforward walk up to our first major summit of the day Meall Bhuidhe at 946m.Next we’ll pick our way down the ridge through the crags to the belach then up to Meall Coire na Gaoithe'n Ear with its splendid views of Loch Cuaich. 

Another descent to the next belach and then some simple scrambling leads to our second main objective, Luinne Beheinn at 939m. After ‘high fives’ all round we can then begin descending. From here we can see over to the north side of the peninsula and into Barrisdale. We’ll descend to the top of the Barrisdale pass and take the easier ground back through beautiful Gleann an Dubh Lochain and past the loch. Back in Inverie we’ll freshen up and celebrate with a very well-deserved dinner later that evening!

Day 5

Home time and no doubt there will be a few dragging their satchels at the thought of leaving the lodge and the specialness of Knoydart. 

However leave we must and after catching the ferry back to Mallaig, there’s time for a last brunch before people point their noses for home.